Sailing & Traveling the World
January 2013: Bahia Conception', Escondida Beach
Turtles & Blue footed Boobys and lots of beautiful fish everyday as we go round' in our new Inova Kayak. A great way to spend the winter, on the beach, watching the amazing sunrises, listening as the dolphins come into the bay, sipping good coffee. We've spent the last 3 winters here in Baja. Waiting for whales & enjoying the increasing number of great friends we've gathered on these azure shores. Whales sharks came in the last 2 winters, but none in 2013.
Mid January: head north.
Valentines Day: Egypt
Giza & the Mensa Hotel [a former palace at the base of the Great Pyramid]
Red & Stepped pyramid [we go inside of the step]
The Cairo Museum [one could spend a dozen days in there]
A ship to upper Egypt & Aswan then back to Luxor again
Alexandria [All the countries of the Mediterranean in one place]
March 1st: Jordan & a visit to Petra & the Dead Sea
In Petra, we felt we were back in the red rock country of Utah
Back to Utah for a birthday visit with Mom & family in Southern Utah.
A drive up the West Desert of Utah & Hot Spring heaven – then is begins to snow!
West Desert & Baker Hot Springs in the snow
I – 80 at Tooele is WHITE as we pull into the marina at the Great Salt Lake to see Pahoe'. He STILL lives in a motor home right on the shore. ITS cold & snowy BUT the sun will come out.
We'll ski this week. Perfect timing for this lovely new DEEP powder to arrive.
On to the boat thru' Idaho's City of Rocks, more hot springs, then to eastern Oregon and Owayee area for MORE hot springs.
We drive and wander places where you can still see the Oregon trail. Then to Burns & north on highway 395.
Thousands of Snow Geese & hundreds of Sand Hill Cranes show us the way north.
Beautiful drive BUT fraught with snow & wild winds. We get to Pendleton in time for catibalic winds and hail.
Over the mountains to the Pacific, to the ferry after stocking up in Burlington's COSTCO.
Launch April 16th in RAGING, scary winds. & Of course, the next morning it is calm & we head north.
Our goal this year is Alaska: jet boat ride in Wrangell up the Stikine River, Elfin Cove, & Sitka. We get um' all done & MORE! SO much more!
Check into Tseum Harbor, next to Sidney. Barbara [VE7KLU] net control for the Great Northern Boaters Net came by to see SV MOM. Barbara & Gerry were very helpful when we were building and she had not seen the boat finished. We hadda great chin wag & off we went north that after noon with the flood tide.
Chemanis to go to the Credit Union & sort out the Canadian Cash.
The Fish n' Chips place is no more, but found a GREAT bakery. We get macaroons!
Nanaimo for our new/ used PACTOR modem to replace the one stolen in Mexico.
Westview: whew LONG day for us.
Crossing the Georgia Straits & all the way up to Westview/ Powell River.
The marina is a fair price off season
No one really there except a Sister Ship we think is called “Autumn Wine.”
People were out on the deck BUT were very unfriendly. “Their loss”, I always say.
Forward Harbor: Douglas Bay
We had all 5 rapids north in perfect alignment to keep going all the way to the doorstep of Johnstone Straits. The anchorage has a great path over a small neck to look north. Found first feather of the trip – white.
Alert Bay has been our little home for many years now. We have family there. Bob Glass [83 years young] and Beau Dick, a carver and shaman. We have a lovely time catching up with both. Beau came on board & sat with us. Very special.
With Bob, I took my guitar to his house. We made a nice supper then hadda little hootenanny. He on his stand up bass. We sang into the night.
This was to be our last visit with Bob. He died the coming November. We had many years of sheer delight with him in Alert Bay and it will never be the same without him.
Port Hardy for fuel and free, hot showers
One of the worst anchorages we've ever had. The wind blew 25 knots right down the bay. We drug at first then finally set. BUT then you wonder all night. Not great & Gordon Channel beat us up bad getting there.
Murray Labyrinth to set up to go around Cape Caution.
Wait many days & weather does NOT cooperate so we run Nakwakto Rapids into Seymour, Allison & Belize Inlets. Stay in there for a week wandering around. Its snowing and hailing. There is a 1000 miles of shoreline in there. AMAZING> However, the land is being stripped of all its trees. Helicopters are constantly humming to the sound of chainsaws.
Out of Nakwakto at 9 PM to anchor close to make a run at 5 AM out of Slingsby Channel, & around Cape Caution. We fight current half way thru', then it turns & flushes us out. The ocean swells reach us BUT they are smooth. We make a run all the way to...
Hike to Sagar Lake in the rain and fog.
Eucott Hot Springs
We decide we have it all there. High mountains with ice falls crashing from time to time, hot springs, muddy, shallow anchorage, & other boats bringing us crab [m/v Its About Time]! Why go anywhere else? Until, on our 5 or 6th morning soak we hear a “meow.” Cougars have been known to attack people & I want none of that chance. If there is a cat lair nearby with kittens, I'm outta there. So we packed it up.
One morning at Eucott we awoke to campers at the Hot Springs. We never saw them come in by kayak. They were soaking and soaking & I usually wait until people have their time BUT it looked like I'd not get a soak unless we joined them. Well, one guy was making pancakes while standing in the springs – naked of course. He offered us a Hot Cake! Turned out they were making a trek from Vancouver to Skagway by ski, hike, & kayak called the Up The Coast tour. WOW... very inspirational to meet “kids” [20s] doing such an amazing trek.
Pulled into a spot behind an island just inside of Gunboat. Someone had stashed a huge cedar log in the water. We wondered if it was the many they are stealing along the coast now. Thieves are going into provincial parks and taking 1000 year old trees down.
Bella Bella for fuel, food and booze.
That's the last of the store since it is burned down by arson later that summer.
Klayquat Inlet just around the corner from Bella Bella to get a jump on Milbanke Sound the next morning.
This is a weird anchorage for it is a 20 foot deep “spit” at the mouth of an inlet that is 100 – 500 feet deep. If you drag anchor, you may be sailing away in deep water. The current in and out can be over a knot! There are few places is anchor in this area so you're kinda stuck.
Bishop Hot springs on a mourning buoy.
There for a couple of days & no one came. When we arrived there were 2 boats at the dock.
A lazy sail around Gribell Island looking for the white, Spirit Bear. LOVELY trip, no bear but a hump back whale is feeding near us as we pull into:
Nice walk around the board walk. Lots of info about fighting the pipeline at Kitamat & the Asian freighters that will ply these narrow channels with oil. A Native group called: Idle No More will hopefully have the power to unite people against this dyer project.
Up Grenville Channel to Baker Inlet
Whew – it's a narrow opening into Baker at the northern part of Grenville. You MUST have the tide right at slack to get in. THEN, not only were we fighting the current a bit, but then a HUGE tree came floating out across the channel at least 100 feet long. We scrambled to the side trying not to run up on the rocks. JUST missed it & we were IN. We followed a fishing boat in who later gave us LOTS of shrimp and crab. YUM!
Very deep anchoring in the way back – 70 feet. It RAINED hard. Black bear on the beach & LOTS of waterfalls we could hear BUT not see – too foggy.
Winds started to howl as we sailed north. We ended up sailing with the wind [30+ knots] up the Grenville & around the corner to Hunts on Porcher Island. This was a wonderful place to hang out while we waited for the weather to cross the Dixon Entrance to Alaska.
It had a trail and Sand Hill cranes and nice people. They let us use their phone to call Customs to ask if we could stay in Foggy Bay.
Ketchikan: May 15
We make it in one day all the way from Hunts. It was SO smooth and lovely. The only swell we encountered was wake from m/v Sea Jay.
We stayed at the Yacht Club and enjoyed the last steak dinner of the winter season. We got to go to the Grind as well. It's a local talent show. WOW it was amazing. THEN at intermission, you get to sample all these desserts. It's $5 admission, or a dessert. Then there are prizes for the BEST dessert. VERY fun. Roger & Barbara [HAM radio people] took us. Then we gotta little tour of Ketchikan after the show. The sun's up until 11 pm or so.
On to Darlene & Floyds in Chomely Sound BUT the Clarence Strait becomes too rotten & we turn back & head into the Behm Canal & hang out at Roosevelt Lagoon for several days.
Blow Hole – wow its shallow & too narrow,
Good walk & a small free floating dock.
Met up with SV Cayenne again. We got tons of crab here & hadda great dinner with our new friends from the Netherlands, Sabine & Hannis
We get our jet boat ride
Spend some time with Gord & Kary [M/v Cygnus] & Bill & Lynn [S/V Canuk] HAM radio people. We have great fun at a Happy Hour at the dock. They had never known BUT they're all neighbors in Pender Harbor, Sunshine Coast.
Wrangell is a good place to provision & the markets will drive you back to the marina.
Great museum there.
Roosevelt Dock 9 miles from Wrangell
GREAT place to go for a walk.
Sumner Strait was SMOOTH so we went for it. We anchor at the mouth of Rocky then wait for the tide to turn north. We go all the way thru' & anchor inside a nice horse shoe island a dozen miles from Kake.
Went to the SOS store & bought celery & fresh basil
Baranoff Hot Springs
Gardener Point from Fredrick sound into Chatham kicked our ass! In fact, a tug boat hung near us worried we might not make it. The wind built to 20+ knots & we were running against the current. BUT we finally crawled into the Hot Springs – gotta spot on the dock & ummmmmmmmmmmm. Met S/V Escape from Sandy, Utah.
The bath house now has all metal tubs & they're COLD. The beautiful Japanese wood tub is up in the brush. What a shame! It was really only big enough for one BUT it was warm & stayed warm. The mini-cruise ships have really made this place suck. LOTS of tourists & they're trashing the place. Bummer.... all good things. BUT the walk to the lake is still worth the stop. & being below the giant waterfall is amazing.
Bears bears & more bears! It was totally amazing watching 2 young bears eating shell fish they squished out of the shore RIGHT from our pilot house window. VERY close to us off the dock. We took a walk one day & was so scared after we saw one bear come running towards us. Somehow the bear thought we were behind it BUT it came towards us RUNNING! We stayed there several days. Lovely... Met Silver Streak a crab boat with Captain Eric & his dogs from Sitka.
Kalenan Bay across the Salisbury Sound thru' Surge Narrows.
We went left thru' Canoe Pass. It was just fine. WOW – lots of traffic thru' there along with the Fairweather, the state ferry that will go over 30 knots per hour! We met Silver Star, Prime Time [John], & saw Escape again. We ended up walking the next day with Escape to the Sea Lion Cove, the sea side of Kosicoff [?] Island.
Thanks John, for all the wonderful salmon – especially the BBQd in alder fish.
Anchored right in town. SO cool. The docks were the most expensive in Alaska - .87/ foot. So we anchored & it was fine. We did the tourist thing – goin' to the Sheldon Jackson Museum, Totem Park [the smallest Nat'l park in America], & popping around town. Great shopping & liquor & laundry. WiFi at McDonalds.
Edgemont Volcano, Freds' Creek, Dumas Inlet, just all around for a few days. Then went back to Sitka, then out to Goddard Hot Springs, Redoubt Inlet at the stream mouth with salmon jumping all over with mama & 2 cubs running back n' forth over the river weir, then back to Sitka. That area is a treasure trove of lovely anchorages. However, we did get a thunder storm that scared the “h” out of us! We got this radio message that started saying, “Get to a safe port now. There are major thunder/ lightening storms coming.” JUST then we were anchoring in a new place & the rocks below made holding impossible. Thru' the thick of the storm we had to move. We were close to a muddy place we'd been to before so we just ran for it. OMG!
Peril Strait to Hoonah
Appleton Anchorage with mooring buoy by the cabin – BUGS galore
Hoo'nah then on thru' Icy Strait & Orcas with a baby next to our boat.
Beautiful sunny cruise to Taylor Bay, Brady Glacier then to Fern Harbor
Dumas Inlet: wolf!
Round' and about thru' whales & hundreds of sea lions to Earl Cove.
Baby hummingbirds & the wind blew like hell through there.
What a TRIP. Great walks around the board walk. Lots of time to talk story.
Pelican & beyond – to the end of Lisianski Inlet
Stayed for a few days & just enjoyed the many brown bears. NOT one boat joined us there. Not one. Bears on shore, bears peaking over grass – at one time, 5 bears!
Lisianski back to Pelican
$16 at the dock, cheapest laundry we saw. Free library
Pelican out Lisianski Strait to Lumber Cove & dinner with m/v Alice J
So starts our cruise around Chichikoff Island.
Good anchorage & could explore from there
Don't try to go thru' Dry Passage. Super shallow
Anna & Sisters' Lake
Anchored way up by the stream in Annas. Then took the dinghy thru' to Sisters at slack. We probably could take our boat in BUT were too nervous. Even at slack there was current & it's a narrow opening. Back there were bears & birds. There was a small hike over to another anchorage. We spent 2 days exploring back there.
Kleg [?] anchorage & a walk thru' mining times long gone
Katz Peninsula & a sail inside to the end with griz'. Fan belt breaks & sailing again Carl fixes it before we ground on shore.
Peile Passage & out to the Gulf of Alaska to Salisbury Sound & back to Sitka
There were opposing currents from the tide coming in, the Gulf of Alaska & somewhere else. It was totally foggy so you couldn't see which way the waves were setting up. It was about 12 miles into Salisbury Sound & what a relief it was to crawl well into the Sound.
Peril Strait & on down Chatham to Barranoff again
Red Bluff Bay
Met s/v Holy Grail, Howard & Stephanie of Hilo, HI
Lots of mini cruise ships. VERY busy there. Beautiful place with bear shows.
Rocky Pass: stayed at the north end a couple of days
Black Bear Bay & on thru' Rocky Pass
We meet Joe Hollywood [KL2GT] & stay at his float house for a few days
Sumner to Meyers Chuck
Misty Fiords & the Behm Canal
Start at Alva, Punchbowl, Katz [?], another island, Walker [?] Several days just amazed at Eddystone Rock. A huge, 200 foot plus volcanic plug right in the middle of the fiord!
“NOT SO” m/v Serene. A 420 foot whale of a motor boat probably owned by the Russian Mafia was the largest privately owned boat in 2010. They came in the bay at about midnight – dropped a VERY loud anchor close to us. At 7:30 AM they began a wave of float planes that came & went a dozen times right by our boat. Jet skis & small noisy boats began flying about clogging the remainder of the bay with noise. VERY NOT SO serene. Then we heard later that Second Chance asked them for ice. The guy on board turned to the servants & said, “Tell im' 'no'.”
Foggy Bay/ Verey Inlet
A lovely place. Lots of traffic & met some really fun people – Second Chance, & $.27 cents
BC the side of Portland Canal & moved around there a bit exploring
Looked into Brundage Inlet at high flood & it was totally rapids & so frightening. YIKES!
Rupert – whatta jip.... 60$ + dock
We checked in at the “lightering dock”. That worked pretty good.
BEAUTIFUL but didn't stay. We went around the harbor & just didn't feel good about anchoring in the stream under the waterfall. That was the only place that had reasonable depths. We'll need to go back since there is an awesome walk & ancient fish traps to see.
Stayed in a lagoon waiting for weather. Red throated loons doing a mating dance!
Someone gives us halibut!
Cameron Cove on Princess Royal Island [pri]
SPIRIT BEAR sighting along with a wolf, bears, eagles, etc. Incredible place!
Alexander Inlet [pri]
Down Finlayson to Matheson passage
There had been a huge tide & there were many many HUGE logs in the water. Lots of debris & log jams all across the bay.
Sister ship, Costa Vida
Holy Grail & Good Vibration
harbormaster gives us free moorage since he knows & loves SV MOM
We got tired of the 20 + knot winds & waves ON THE DOCK at Shearwater & found an anchorage out of town. It was nice to get out of there. Rolly said that Shearwater is notorious for high winds when they come from the south.
Nice beach walks & internet! Had supper with M/V Abyssinia
Cape Caution & to Goletas Channel
Anchored in a place near a native settlement
Tried to anchor another night BUT the winds were too high.
Made a run to Port Hardy & SV MOM became a submarine in high waves & wind.
Port Hardy & Rainshadow at the dock
We meet Marilyn & Van [k1van] in Puna, Hawaii
Alert Bay – missed buddy Bob by an hour.
Stayed at Bob's & worked on internet setting up Hawaii stay
s/v 3 cheers
Blackney Sound & orca in Johnstone Strait
We came out into Johnstone in fog so thick you couldn't see a boats length away. Whale watching boats everywhere & fortunately one hailed us to say, “whales ahead!”
Forward harbor again after being “may-tagged” at the south end of Johnstone.
Rapids Whirlpool etc. Make it to an UN named dock.
Thurston Marine Park
Meet m/v Halikai & s/v HAM RADIO
Granite Cove on Quadra Island
Sister ship on the hard on her keels. Looks like abandoned. Black Bart [?]
Discovery Passage & Seymour Narrows & into the Georgia Straits CALM & sunny.
LOTS of Orca & dolphins
Vananda, Sturt Bay on Texada Island
Walk for groceries
Free book exchange
nice protected harbor
visit with Gord & Kary
Schooner Cove dock [$40 + bucks]
Dinner & visit with Christine & Terry our Northern Lite buddies from baja.
They were in the Boston Marathon & narrowly missed the bomb that went off there.
A Javawalky Coffee with Evan, Winston & Carolyn.
False Narrows to see Oliver & Sharon @ Degnan bay.
Needs treasure chest filled with toys again
Once we went to Ladysmith & the thrift store. I bought GOBS of toys. Then we dumped them all in the treasure box @ Pirates Cove
Mowgli & then another place on the Secretary Islands
Mowgli got very windy so we moved late - YUCK
Annette Bay to see Ricki Ticki Tavi
Tseum & stayed at the fuel dock over night after fish n' chips
Back to America
round' the bottom of the San Juan Island. LOTS of Orca!!!
Friday Harbor check in
Picked Margie up, Carl's sister in Friday Harbor
Lopez for Ron Meng's Wake: age 59. RIP
Sailed around with Margie & Lorrie [IMC]
MOM out October 1st
Gone south by October 8th
Hot Springs tour of eastern Oregon & the middle of Nevada by truck n' camper
St George October 23rd
Hawaii Oct 30th
Waikiki til November 6th with mom & brother Kirk
Molokai til Dec 7th
M/V Pride of America Pearl Harbor Day until Dec 14
Big Island Hilo, Kona
Big Island til Mid March 2014
Utah: Back to St. George to see mom and my brother
Ski the end of March
April 2014 splash the boat again
This year we plan on going around Cape Caution and exploring that country
Goals: Fiordlands, Gardner Canal, Cullpepper Lagoon & more Spirit Bear we hope.
August: mom's 90th birthday
Winter 2014/ 15 ?????
Talking about Florida & possibly buying a boat for cruising da islands
Mayan ruins & flamingos & manatees & more
Belize, perhaps Central America
Macho Pico, Peru
Greek Islands & the Aegean Sea
China: great wall