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2013

Sailing & Traveling the World


January 2013: Bahia Conception', Escondida Beach


Turtles & Blue footed Boobys and lots of beautiful fish everyday as we go round' in our new Inova Kayak. A great way to spend the winter, on the beach, watching the amazing sunrises, listening as the dolphins come into the bay, sipping good coffee. We've spent the last 3 winters here in Baja. Waiting for whales & enjoying the increasing number of great friends we've gathered on these azure shores. Whales sharks came in the last 2 winters, but none in 2013.


Mid January: head north.


Valentines Day: Egypt

Giza & the Mensa Hotel [a former palace at the base of the Great Pyramid]

Red & Stepped pyramid [we go inside of the step]

The Cairo Museum [one could spend a dozen days in there]

A ship to upper Egypt & Aswan then back to Luxor again

Alexandria [All the countries of the Mediterranean in one place]


March 1st: Jordan & a visit to Petra & the Dead Sea

In Petra, we felt we were back in the red rock country of Utah

Karnak Castle

Moab


Back to Utah for a birthday visit with Mom & family in Southern Utah.

A drive up the West Desert of Utah & Hot Spring heaven – then is begins to snow!


West Desert & Baker Hot Springs in the snow


I – 80 at Tooele is WHITE as we pull into the marina at the Great Salt Lake to see Pahoe'. He STILL lives in a motor home right on the shore. ITS cold & snowy BUT the sun will come out.

We'll ski this week. Perfect timing for this lovely new DEEP powder to arrive.


April

On to the boat thru' Idaho's City of Rocks, more hot springs, then to eastern Oregon and Owayee area for MORE hot springs.


We drive and wander places where you can still see the Oregon trail. Then to Burns & north on highway 395.


Thousands of Snow Geese & hundreds of Sand Hill Cranes show us the way north.

Beautiful drive BUT fraught with snow & wild winds. We get to Pendleton in time for catibalic winds and hail.


Over the mountains to the Pacific, to the ferry after stocking up in Burlington's COSTCO.


SV MOM

Launch April 16th in RAGING, scary winds. & Of course, the next morning it is calm & we head north.

Our goal this year is Alaska: jet boat ride in Wrangell up the Stikine River, Elfin Cove, & Sitka. We get um' all done & MORE! SO much more!


Check into Tseum Harbor, next to Sidney. Barbara [VE7KLU] net control for the Great Northern Boaters Net came by to see SV MOM. Barbara & Gerry were very helpful when we were building and she had not seen the boat finished. We hadda great chin wag & off we went north that after noon with the flood tide.


Telegraph Harbor


Chemanis to go to the Credit Union & sort out the Canadian Cash.

The Fish n' Chips place is no more, but found a GREAT bakery. We get macaroons!


Nanaimo for our new/ used PACTOR modem to replace the one stolen in Mexico.


Westview: whew LONG day for us.

Crossing the Georgia Straits & all the way up to Westview/ Powell River.

The marina is a fair price off season


Refuge Cove:

No one really there except a Sister Ship we think is called “Autumn Wine.”

People were out on the deck BUT were very unfriendly. “Their loss”, I always say.


Forward Harbor: Douglas Bay

We had all 5 rapids north in perfect alignment to keep going all the way to the doorstep of Johnstone Straits. The anchorage has a great path over a small neck to look north. Found first feather of the trip – white.


Alert Bay

Alert Bay has been our little home for many years now. We have family there. Bob Glass [83 years young] and Beau Dick, a carver and shaman. We have a lovely time catching up with both. Beau came on board & sat with us. Very special.

With Bob, I took my guitar to his house. We made a nice supper then hadda little hootenanny. He on his stand up bass. We sang into the night.

This was to be our last visit with Bob. He died the coming November. We had many years of sheer delight with him in Alert Bay and it will never be the same without him.


Bear Cove,

Port Hardy for fuel and free, hot showers


Walker Group

One of the worst anchorages we've ever had. The wind blew 25 knots right down the bay. We drug at first then finally set. BUT then you wonder all night. Not great & Gordon Channel beat us up bad getting there.


Murray Labyrinth to set up to go around Cape Caution.

Wait many days & weather does NOT cooperate so we run Nakwakto Rapids into Seymour, Allison & Belize Inlets. Stay in there for a week wandering around. Its snowing and hailing. There is a 1000 miles of shoreline in there. AMAZING> However, the land is being stripped of all its trees. Helicopters are constantly humming to the sound of chainsaws.


Out of Nakwakto at 9 PM to anchor close to make a run at 5 AM out of Slingsby Channel, & around Cape Caution. We fight current half way thru', then it turns & flushes us out. The ocean swells reach us BUT they are smooth. We make a run all the way to...


Codville Lagoon

Hike to Sagar Lake in the rain and fog.


Eucott Hot Springs

We decide we have it all there. High mountains with ice falls crashing from time to time, hot springs, muddy, shallow anchorage, & other boats bringing us crab [m/v Its About Time]! Why go anywhere else? Until, on our 5 or 6th morning soak we hear a “meow.” Cougars have been known to attack people & I want none of that chance. If there is a cat lair nearby with kittens, I'm outta there. So we packed it up.


One morning at Eucott we awoke to campers at the Hot Springs. We never saw them come in by kayak. They were soaking and soaking & I usually wait until people have their time BUT it looked like I'd not get a soak unless we joined them. Well, one guy was making pancakes while standing in the springs – naked of course. He offered us a Hot Cake! Turned out they were making a trek from Vancouver to Skagway by ski, hike, & kayak called the Up The Coast tour. WOW... very inspirational to meet “kids” [20s] doing such an amazing trek.


Gunboat Passage

Pulled into a spot behind an island just inside of Gunboat. Someone had stashed a huge cedar log in the water. We wondered if it was the many they are stealing along the coast now. Thieves are going into provincial parks and taking 1000 year old trees down.


Bella Bella for fuel, food and booze.

That's the last of the store since it is burned down by arson later that summer.


Klayquat Inlet just around the corner from Bella Bella to get a jump on Milbanke Sound the next morning.


Green Spit

This is a weird anchorage for it is a 20 foot deep “spit” at the mouth of an inlet that is 100 – 500 feet deep. If you drag anchor, you may be sailing away in deep water. The current in and out can be over a knot! There are few places is anchor in this area so you're kinda stuck.


Bishop Hot springs on a mourning buoy.

There for a couple of days & no one came. When we arrived there were 2 boats at the dock.


A lazy sail around Gribell Island looking for the white, Spirit Bear. LOVELY trip, no bear but a hump back whale is feeding near us as we pull into:


Hartley Bay

Nice walk around the board walk. Lots of info about fighting the pipeline at Kitamat & the Asian freighters that will ply these narrow channels with oil. A Native group called: Idle No More will hopefully have the power to unite people against this dyer project.


Up Grenville Channel to Baker Inlet

Whew – it's a narrow opening into Baker at the northern part of Grenville. You MUST have the tide right at slack to get in. THEN, not only were we fighting the current a bit, but then a HUGE tree came floating out across the channel at least 100 feet long. We scrambled to the side trying not to run up on the rocks. JUST missed it & we were IN. We followed a fishing boat in who later gave us LOTS of shrimp and crab. YUM!

Very deep anchoring in the way back – 70 feet. It RAINED hard. Black bear on the beach & LOTS of waterfalls we could hear BUT not see – too foggy.


Hunts Inlet

Winds started to howl as we sailed north. We ended up sailing with the wind [30+ knots] up the Grenville & around the corner to Hunts on Porcher Island. This was a wonderful place to hang out while we waited for the weather to cross the Dixon Entrance to Alaska.

It had a trail and Sand Hill cranes and nice people. They let us use their phone to call Customs to ask if we could stay in Foggy Bay.


Ketchikan: May 15

We make it in one day all the way from Hunts. It was SO smooth and lovely. The only swell we encountered was wake from m/v Sea Jay.

We stayed at the Yacht Club and enjoyed the last steak dinner of the winter season. We got to go to the Grind as well. It's a local talent show. WOW it was amazing. THEN at intermission, you get to sample all these desserts. It's $5 admission, or a dessert. Then there are prizes for the BEST dessert. VERY fun. Roger & Barbara [HAM radio people] took us. Then we gotta little tour of Ketchikan after the show. The sun's up until 11 pm or so.

On to Darlene & Floyds in Chomely Sound BUT the Clarence Strait becomes too rotten & we turn back & head into the Behm Canal & hang out at Roosevelt Lagoon for several days.


Union Bay:

Blow Hole – wow its shallow & too narrow,


Frosty Bay

Good walk & a small free floating dock.


Berg Bay

Met up with SV Cayenne again. We got tons of crab here & hadda great dinner with our new friends from the Netherlands, Sabine & Hannis


Wrangell

We get our jet boat ride

Spend some time with Gord & Kary [M/v Cygnus] & Bill & Lynn [S/V Canuk] HAM radio people. We have great fun at a Happy Hour at the dock. They had never known BUT they're all neighbors in Pender Harbor, Sunshine Coast.

Wrangell is a good place to provision & the markets will drive you back to the marina.

Great museum there.


Roosevelt Dock 9 miles from Wrangell

GREAT place to go for a walk.


Rocky Pass

Sumner Strait was SMOOTH so we went for it. We anchor at the mouth of Rocky then wait for the tide to turn north. We go all the way thru' & anchor inside a nice horse shoe island a dozen miles from Kake.


Kake docks

Went to the SOS store & bought celery & fresh basil


Baranoff Hot Springs

Gardener Point from Fredrick sound into Chatham kicked our ass! In fact, a tug boat hung near us worried we might not make it. The wind built to 20+ knots & we were running against the current. BUT we finally crawled into the Hot Springs – gotta spot on the dock & ummmmmmmmmmmm. Met S/V Escape from Sandy, Utah.

The bath house now has all metal tubs & they're COLD. The beautiful Japanese wood tub is up in the brush. What a shame! It was really only big enough for one BUT it was warm & stayed warm. The mini-cruise ships have really made this place suck. LOTS of tourists & they're trashing the place. Bummer.... all good things. BUT the walk to the lake is still worth the stop. & being below the giant waterfall is amazing.


False Island

Bears bears & more bears! It was totally amazing watching 2 young bears eating shell fish they squished out of the shore RIGHT from our pilot house window. VERY close to us off the dock. We took a walk one day & was so scared after we saw one bear come running towards us. Somehow the bear thought we were behind it BUT it came towards us RUNNING! We stayed there several days. Lovely... Met Silver Streak a crab boat with Captain Eric & his dogs from Sitka.


Kalenan Bay across the Salisbury Sound thru' Surge Narrows.

We went left thru' Canoe Pass. It was just fine. WOW – lots of traffic thru' there along with the Fairweather, the state ferry that will go over 30 knots per hour! We met Silver Star, Prime Time [John], & saw Escape again. We ended up walking the next day with Escape to the Sea Lion Cove, the sea side of Kosicoff [?] Island.

Thanks John, for all the wonderful salmon – especially the BBQd in alder fish.


Sitka!

Anchored right in town. SO cool. The docks were the most expensive in Alaska - .87/ foot. So we anchored & it was fine. We did the tourist thing – goin' to the Sheldon Jackson Museum, Totem Park [the smallest Nat'l park in America], & popping around town. Great shopping & liquor & laundry. WiFi at McDonalds.


Sitka Sound:

Edgemont Volcano, Freds' Creek, Dumas Inlet, just all around for a few days. Then went back to Sitka, then out to Goddard Hot Springs, Redoubt Inlet at the stream mouth with salmon jumping all over with mama & 2 cubs running back n' forth over the river weir, then back to Sitka. That area is a treasure trove of lovely anchorages. However, we did get a thunder storm that scared the “h” out of us! We got this radio message that started saying, “Get to a safe port now. There are major thunder/ lightening storms coming.” JUST then we were anchoring in a new place & the rocks below made holding impossible. Thru' the thick of the storm we had to move. We were close to a muddy place we'd been to before so we just ran for it. OMG!


Peril Strait to Hoonah

Appleton Anchorage with mooring buoy by the cabin – BUGS galore


Hoo'nah then on thru' Icy Strait & Orcas with a baby next to our boat.

Beautiful sunny cruise to Taylor Bay, Brady Glacier then to Fern Harbor


Dumas Inlet: wolf!


Inian Islands

Round' and about thru' whales & hundreds of sea lions to Earl Cove.

Baby hummingbirds & the wind blew like hell through there.


Elfin Cove

What a TRIP. Great walks around the board walk. Lots of time to talk story.


Pelican & beyond – to the end of Lisianski Inlet

Stayed for a few days & just enjoyed the many brown bears. NOT one boat joined us there. Not one. Bears on shore, bears peaking over grass – at one time, 5 bears!


Lisianski back to Pelican

$16 at the dock, cheapest laundry we saw. Free library


Pelican out Lisianski Strait to Lumber Cove & dinner with m/v Alice J

So starts our cruise around Chichikoff Island.


Dry Passage

Good anchorage & could explore from there

Don't try to go thru' Dry Passage. Super shallow


Anna & Sisters' Lake

Anchored way up by the stream in Annas. Then took the dinghy thru' to Sisters at slack. We probably could take our boat in BUT were too nervous. Even at slack there was current & it's a narrow opening. Back there were bears & birds. There was a small hike over to another anchorage. We spent 2 days exploring back there.


Kleg [?] anchorage & a walk thru' mining times long gone


Katz Peninsula & a sail inside to the end with griz'. Fan belt breaks & sailing again Carl fixes it before we ground on shore.


Peile Passage & out to the Gulf of Alaska to Salisbury Sound & back to Sitka

There were opposing currents from the tide coming in, the Gulf of Alaska & somewhere else. It was totally foggy so you couldn't see which way the waves were setting up. It was about 12 miles into Salisbury Sound & what a relief it was to crawl well into the Sound.


Peril Strait & on down Chatham to Barranoff again


Red Bluff Bay

Met s/v Holy Grail, Howard & Stephanie of Hilo, HI

Lots of mini cruise ships. VERY busy there. Beautiful place with bear shows.


Rocky Pass: stayed at the north end a couple of days


Black Bear Bay & on thru' Rocky Pass


Port Protection

We meet Joe Hollywood [KL2GT] & stay at his float house for a few days


Sumner to Meyers Chuck


Ketchikan


Misty Fiords & the Behm Canal

Start at Alva, Punchbowl, Katz [?], another island, Walker [?] Several days just amazed at Eddystone Rock. A huge, 200 foot plus volcanic plug right in the middle of the fiord!

NOT SO” m/v Serene. A 420 foot whale of a motor boat probably owned by the Russian Mafia was the largest privately owned boat in 2010. They came in the bay at about midnight – dropped a VERY loud anchor close to us. At 7:30 AM they began a wave of float planes that came & went a dozen times right by our boat. Jet skis & small noisy boats began flying about clogging the remainder of the bay with noise. VERY NOT SO serene. Then we heard later that Second Chance asked them for ice. The guy on board turned to the servants & said, “Tell im' 'no'.”


Foggy Bay/ Verey Inlet

A lovely place. Lots of traffic & met some really fun people – Second Chance, & $.27 cents


BC the side of Portland Canal & moved around there a bit exploring

Looked into Brundage Inlet at high flood & it was totally rapids & so frightening. YIKES!


Rupert – whatta jip.... 60$ + dock

We checked in at the “lightering dock”. That worked pretty good.


Camelion Cove


Lowe Inlet

BEAUTIFUL but didn't stay. We went around the harbor & just didn't feel good about anchoring in the stream under the waterfall. That was the only place that had reasonable depths. We'll need to go back since there is an awesome walk & ancient fish traps to see.


Union Passage

Stayed in a lagoon waiting for weather. Red throated loons doing a mating dance!

Someone gives us halibut!


Cameron Cove on Princess Royal Island [pri]

SPIRIT BEAR sighting along with a wolf, bears, eagles, etc. Incredible place!


Alexander Inlet [pri]


Down Finlayson to Matheson passage

There had been a huge tide & there were many many HUGE logs in the water. Lots of debris & log jams all across the bay.


Shearwater

Jean Marc

Sister ship, Costa Vida

Holy Grail & Good Vibration

harbormaster gives us free moorage since he knows & loves SV MOM


Gunboat Passage

We got tired of the 20 + knot winds & waves ON THE DOCK at Shearwater & found an anchorage out of town. It was nice to get out of there. Rolly said that Shearwater is notorious for high winds when they come from the south.


Pruth Bay

Nice beach walks & internet! Had supper with M/V Abyssinia


Cape Caution & to Goletas Channel

Anchored in a place near a native settlement

Tried to anchor another night BUT the winds were too high.

Made a run to Port Hardy & SV MOM became a submarine in high waves & wind.


Port Hardy & Rainshadow at the dock

We meet Marilyn & Van [k1van] in Puna, Hawaii


Beaver Harbor


Alert Bay – missed buddy Bob by an hour.

Stayed at Bob's & worked on internet setting up Hawaii stay

s/v 3 cheers


Blackney Sound & orca in Johnstone Strait

We came out into Johnstone in fog so thick you couldn't see a boats length away. Whale watching boats everywhere & fortunately one hailed us to say, “whales ahead!”


Forward harbor again after being “may-tagged” at the south end of Johnstone.


Rapids Whirlpool etc. Make it to an UN named dock.


Thurston Marine Park

Meet m/v Halikai & s/v HAM RADIO


Granite Cove on Quadra Island

Sister ship on the hard on her keels. Looks like abandoned. Black Bart [?]


Discovery Passage & Seymour Narrows & into the Georgia Straits CALM & sunny.

LOTS of Orca & dolphins


Vananda, Sturt Bay on Texada Island

Walk for groceries

Free book exchange

nice protected harbor


Pender Harbor

visit with Gord & Kary


Schooner Cove dock [$40 + bucks]

Dinner & visit with Christine & Terry our Northern Lite buddies from baja.

They were in the Boston Marathon & narrowly missed the bomb that went off there.


Nanaimo

A Javawalky Coffee with Evan, Winston & Carolyn.


False Narrows to see Oliver & Sharon @ Degnan bay.


Pirates cove

Needs treasure chest filled with toys again

Once we went to Ladysmith & the thrift store. I bought GOBS of toys. Then we dumped them all in the treasure box @ Pirates Cove


Mowgli & then another place on the Secretary Islands

Mowgli got very windy so we moved late - YUCK


Annette Bay to see Ricki Ticki Tavi


Tseum & stayed at the fuel dock over night after fish n' chips


Back to America

round' the bottom of the San Juan Island. LOTS of Orca!!!


Friday Harbor check in


Lopez


Parks Bay

Picked Margie up, Carl's sister in Friday Harbor


Lopez for Ron Meng's Wake: age 59. RIP


Sailed around with Margie & Lorrie [IMC]


MOM out October 1st


Gone south by October 8th


Hot Springs tour of eastern Oregon & the middle of Nevada by truck n' camper


St George October 23rd


Hawaii Oct 30th

Waikiki til November 6th with mom & brother Kirk

Molokai til Dec 7th

M/V Pride of America Pearl Harbor Day until Dec 14

Oah'u

Maui

Big Island Hilo, Kona

Kaua'i

Oah'u

Big Island til Mid March 2014


Utah: Back to St. George to see mom and my brother


Ski the end of March


April 2014 splash the boat again

This year we plan on going around Cape Caution and exploring that country

Goals: Fiordlands, Gardner Canal, Cullpepper Lagoon & more Spirit Bear we hope.


August: mom's 90th birthday


Winter 2014/ 15 ?????

Talking about Florida & possibly buying a boat for cruising da islands

Mayan ruins & flamingos & manatees & more

Belize, perhaps Central America

Argentina

New Zealand

Galapagos

Antarctic

Macho Pico, Peru

Easter Island

Safari: Africa

Greek Islands & the Aegean Sea

Prague

China: great wall





Sea Shephard